BLACK PEOPLE NEED SUNSCREEN, TOO—HERE'S WHY

Key Takeaways

• While melanin provides some sun protection, it's not enough to completely prevent sunburn, sun damage, and skin cancer.
• When deciding which sunscreen is best for your melanin-rich skin, it's helpful to consider the types of sunscreens (chemical and mineral) and the various formats (such as lotions, sticks, and sprays).

As a Black woman, I can confirm that "Black don't crack" is one of the first beauty mantras I was introduced to as a kid and is one I still hear to this day. However, the idea that Black doesn't crack is a bit of a double-edged sword, especially when it comes to sun protection. There is a widely held misconception that Black people don't need sunscreen because the melanin in our skin serves as sun protection. However, this idea is not only inaccurate (to a degree) but also potentially harmful if you're skipping sunscreen as a result. Black skin is still susceptible to harmful sun damage, and the way sun damage appears in melanin-rich skin can be slightly different; therefore, it's essential to understand the facts. 

Ahead, I spoke to two Black board-certified dermatologists, Naana Boayke, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New Jersey, and Rose Ingleton, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, to debunk the myth that Black people don't need sunscreen, once and for all. Plus, they offer tips on how to make the most of your sun protection to keep your melanin-rich skin healthy.

Meet Our Expert

• Naana Boayke, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New Jersey.
• Rose Ingleton, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

Do Black People Need to Wear Sunscreen?

"Black don't crack" is a super nuanced theory, and the idea that we don't need sunscreen is a harmful byproduct of this. "This is an adage that refers to the fact that darker skin does not wrinkle like white skin. This is due to the photo-protective effect of our melanin," Dr. Ingleton says. "Darker skin has more melanin than white skin. What does happen to darker skin as it ages is that it sags, and the complexion gets uneven with areas of hyperpigmentation. So Black doesn't crack, but it sags." However, even though some signs of aging may appear differently in melanin-rich skin, this melanin doesn't make us completely immune to sun damage. 

"The melanin in our skin has amazing antioxidant properties and has a small sun protection factor [SPF] of about 13. However, you still need a filter like the ones found in sunscreen to protect that antioxidant properly; otherwise, you start to see wrinkles and hyperpigmentation," Dr. Boakye says. Dr. Ingleton adds that in lighter skin tones, that "natural" sun protection factor is as low as 4. "Ideally, we need a daily SPF of at least 30 to 50, which is why we need the filters found in sunscreen to protect against the UV light and the infrared rays as well," she explains.

So, while the more melanin there is in the skin, the longer it will take to burn, your skin can and will eventually burn without adequate sun protection.

The Potential Effects of Not Wearing Sunscreen 

Our experts say that skin cancer is the primary risk associated with not using sunscreen. "Black people do get skin cancer. It's just rarer," Dr. Ingleton says. "Unfortunately, when it occurs, it is usually more advanced if it isn't caught or treated early."

In addition, sun damage can manifest in various ways (not just sunburn) in darker skin tones. "You may see white spots, hyperpigmented patches on the face, and early sagging of our skin," Dr. Ingleton says. Wearing sunscreen can actually improve the appearance of these concerns, preventing issues like hyperpigmentation from getting darker with sun exposure.

How to Pick the Right Sunscreen for Melanin-Rich Skin

Sun protection has been notoriously challenging for individuals with melanin-rich skin because many formulas have historically been unflattering on deep skin tones, leaving behind a white cast. Luckily, there has been significant innovation in the sunscreen aisle, with both chemical and mineral options that are flattering on various shades of melanin-rich skin. When considering which sunscreen is best for you, it's essential to understand the differences between chemical and mineral formulas.

"Chemical sunscreens are made up of chemicals that absorb UV rays, convert them to heat, then release it from the skin," Dr. Ingleton says. "Whereas mineral sunscreens made of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide create a physical block on the skin's surface so the UV rays bounce off the skin." According to Dr. Ingleton, UVB rays cause hyperpigmentation and sunburns, while UVB rays penetrate more deeply and can contribute to signs of aging and skin cancers. "It's important to wear broad-spectrum sunscreen, which protects from both UVA and UVB rays," Dr. Ingleton says.

Because mineral sunscreen creates a physical barrier on the skin, it often leaves behind a white or gray cast, which is more pronounced in deeper skin tones. That doesn't mean there's no way to avoid a cast when wearing a mineral sunscreen, but it may require more massaging and blending, depending on your skin tone (especially if you're using the right amount). It's why many experts tend to favor chemical sunscreens for melanin-rich skin, as they tend to apply more seamlessly to the skin. Regardless, both experts agree that the first step in selecting a sunscreen is to find a formula with at least SPF 30 that you like and want to apply daily.

Next, consider different formats of sunscreen based on your skin type or personal preferences. "Sunscreen sticks are compact, portable, and easy to use for reapplication when on the go," Dr. Ingleton says. "Sprays are great for covering larger surfaces and hard-to-reach areas."

Dr. Boayke says that, while creative formats are fun and make good for reapplication, she recommends finding a cream or gel formula you love first, then integrating other options as needed. "With creams and gels, you can quantify how much product you're applying to make sure you're getting adequate protection," she says. You can also add lip balms and tints with SPF into your routine to protect your lips from sunburn.

The Final Takeaway

Ultimately, people with melanin-rich skin need to acknowledge that the pigment that makes our skin unique and beautiful doesn't render it completely invincible. Wearing sunscreen daily can not only help reduce the risk of burns and skin cancer, but it can also help prevent hyperpigmentation and discoloration from worsening, making the practice a valuable one.

The best advice from our experts is not to overthink it: pick a chemical or mineral formula you like, use different formats like sticks or sprays to cover hard-to-reach areas, and apply them regularly. Ultimately, remember that Black can "crack" if you don't take good care of it, and sunscreen is one of the easiest ways to protect your skin.

Read the original article on Byrdie

2025-06-11T13:00:21Z